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© 1996-2006 John P Dudley

OK - so maybe you’re thinking, Who the hell is this Stu Miller guy and why is he writing a wine column for this website and moreover, Why should I care?”  Well I can’t answer that last question but I can address the first couple:

 A short time back, ok, about two years ago, a very good friend of mine asked me to write a wine review or two for his website.  For some reason I said I would do it.  So better late than never and without further ado – I give you my two bits.

 But before I do I thought I’d give you a little background on my expertise and education on the subject - I have none.  I once read an article from a very well known wine maker and I’ll be damned if I can remember who he was but he said something that will stick with me for ever.  Maybe it’s just because I repeat it too often, but here it is.  “The best wine is the wine you like the best.”  So if I give you a suggestion on a particular wine I really like, just remember.  I never said that YOU would like it - I only said that I like it. 

 If you are looking for a review on a white wine you may be waiting a long time.  Aside from the occasional bottle of Champagne (sparkling wine), I rarely buy anything that you can see through.

 I think of wine buying as somewhat of a hunt.  Anyone can go out and buy a $30 bottle of Renwood Zin and come home with something extremely drinkable.  I would rather buy three to five $7-$10 bottles and get blown away by one that snuck by the snobby critics.  I love finding a wine before it gets popular.  It’s kind of like saying that you saw Pearl Jam when they were just a garage band.  Oh yeah, they still are.

 

Bottom line is that if you try a bottle of wine that I suggest, and you don’t like it, you’ll probably be ok.  I’m guessing you have paid a lot more for something that was plain undrinkable.

 

Stu Miller

October 2002

   Comments?  Questions?  Insults?            E-Mail Stu at imsauced@dudleyonline.com

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Cap or Cork?

March 2005 

 

Well, over the past few years there has been a huge debate over the merits of switching from cork to screw-tops.  I have to say that I am not one to just jump right on the screw-top band-wagon. 

 

I’ve heard the woes and whines that 10% of the natural corks fail to some degree.  But frankly, I’m a little skeptical of the stats.  Not only that but what degree really constitutes a failure?  The 10% I keep hearing about includes all kinds of factors – some seem just plain wine-like.  Hey – maybe it’s just me but sometimes a musty corky whiff favors a wine.  Try getting that from aluminum. 

 

And remember synthetic corks?  What… did we just pass right by those?  I always hated them.  But I kept hearing that it was a perfect seal.  Apparently not.  I’ve heard many reasons why they haven’t quite matched up with expectations but that’s a different – far, far more boring article.  The antithesis of this one you might say…. Right?

 

So should I buy into the cap camp?  Well, a couple of things bother me about caps.  First and foremost is the total, absolute, entire, and complete – not to mention redundant – lack of romance.  We are not talking about some umbrella drink or a can of Coors.  We are talking about WINE (said with unmistakable reverence).  The show, the pomp and circumstance, the spectacle that is uncorking a wine.  Hey, and who doesn’t get a good giggle out of watching some goober trying to impress his date by smelling the cork.

 

The other thing that bugs me is the potential for aluminum to rot or corrode.  Once again, we are talking about WINE.  You know – that stuff stored in dark, moist areas for years and years.  Look – I know that these caps are supposed to be made of a corrosion resistant aluminum but I’m still betting on the corrosion.  After all, how many 50 year old aluminum caps are there out there? 

 

Call me whacky but I’ll take musty cork over aluminum oxide any day.  ___________________________________________

What’s in a glass?  Near the end of my last review I suggested that the wine be drunk from a particular type of glass.  Most of you probably realize that wine glasses are made in different shapes for a reason.  However, I keep hearing the same thing.  Yeah but it doesn’t make that much difference - does it?  

Well if you ever get curious – and I know you are right now unless you have tried this before – try a wine in two or three different shaped glasses and see how much difference there can be.  

Get crazy.  Try a champagne flute and a burgundy glass for example.  Let people know how truly wild you can get.  Talk about a great party stunt - perfect to get that conversation going with the in-laws when you have absolutely nothing to talk about.  After all, a few glasses of wine and anyone is interesting.  Well almost anyone.  I’m boring MYSELF right now.  NEXT! 

PRODUCT UPDATE:  Some of you may have read my review of the Sharper Image cork screw.  Well after a few months of use, I can say that I wish I had spent the extra money and bought a good one.  The materials on this screw are just plain weak.  All in all I would say it is a bargain at one fourth the price.

The Reviews:

Summer 2005

I’ve been trying to tell anyone who will listen – though they may be in short supply these days – that California is currently going through a wine crisis.  There is a huge California wine grape glut going on right now. 

NO!  Don’t wait for the usual suspects to put it quite this simply.  They are doing what they do for PROFIT!  But let’s look at it in a way that the common wine enthusiast can use.  In the past several years there have been not only great years in California for growing grapes but way, way too many vines.   

So what does this mean to you?  What it means is that wine enthusiasts who used to be too poor to own vineyards, are now able to buy wine grapes and make their own wine.  What is even better is that many of these “enthusiasts” are turning what used to be their life-long hobby into a quest to make the wines they always knew they could make.  Well enter the era of extremely good fruit at prices cheaper than you can grow them at and – voila – you have some of the most amazing wine bargains – especially if you are looking at California and grapes such as Zins, Cabs, and Sirahs

So this review is not so much about a particular wine – but about encouraging you all to go out and try some wines from some winery you may never have heard of before.   

So let’s get back to the roots of this column and try a few bargains. 

First up – the 2002 Rock Rabbit - Syrah - Central Coast, CA 

Here’s a wine that gets right at the heart of why this column was created - big fruit, nicely crafted, good character, and downright bang for the buck attitude. 

Apparently, a couple of American blokes really like the Aussie style of Shiraz.  And their toilets must swirl backwards because they nailed it with this one mate.   

I have always been impressed at how the Aussie bastards – (HEY! That’s a term of endearment in them parts!  Don’t go getting mad as a cut snake on me!  Go up to an Aussie and call them one.  REALLY - try it.  Just make sure it’s not a Kiwi – you never know what THEY might do.)  Now… where was I?  Oh yeah, I’ve always been impressed by how the Aussies can put together a pretty damn good Shiraz (and some other wines) for such a bargain price.  But these dunny rats have – in my not so humble opinion – beat them Auzzies at their own game.  This wine is a real corker! 

OK.  Now that I have shown that I can Google Australian slang, I guess I’ll say a little something about this wine.  Man it is just packed with fruit.  I taste blueberries in bunches, ripe black berries, cherries, tobacco, and a hint of licorice.  Finish this off with tannins that wrap the tongue nicely and you simply have one bonzer of a plonk.  Hell, I’m crackin a fat in my daks right now! 

Great news is that you can be full off your face for $7 per bottle if you buy a case.

Editor's Note: Don't mind Stu - he's a Larrikin.  But for the record, opinions, commentaries  and words expressed are exclusively those of Stu Miller and do not necessarily reflect the opinions, commentary, or words that would be used by JD, the publisher of this web site - not that I'm a sook or anything...

October 2003

2000 Giguiere Ranch “Toasted Head” – Meritage – Dunnigan Hills, CA 

This one was an accidental find.  I happened upon a wine with Toasted Head on the label.  It’s got a bear breathing fire on the label.  What’s not to like?  Had to try it.  So I bought a bottle and… oh my!  Could it really have been that good?  So I bought another bottle.  And it was THAT good.  So I went down to buy a case (it comes in half cases actually).  To my extreme sorrow and dismay, however, I could only get seven bottles.  Apparently all remaining stock has already gone to retail.  Alas, I can’t even order any more.  So if any of you find some of this in the Greater Portland, Redding, or San Luis Obispo areas, please let me know.  I WANT MORE!!!  In fact, let me know if you find it – period.  imsauced@oregonsbest.com.

 A little about the wine.  It is a meritage consisting of 51% Malbec, 35% Petit Verdot, 8% Merlot, and….let’s see… carry the one, yep…6% Cab.  The wine boasts of 18-20 months on toasted-head American and French oak barrels.  This wine has bold fruit, tons of character, richly blended tannins, and complexity way beyond its sticker price.

June/July 2003

1999 L.A. Cetto – Petite Syrah – Mexico (That’s right - MEXICO) 

Say hello to my little friend - a Petite Syrah from… south of the border?  What in the name of San Felipe is going on here! 

I first became enamored with Petite Syrah (Pet for short) just a few years ago when I tasted a bottle of EOS 1999 Pet -  Mmmmmmmmm.  As late I have noticed there is somewhat of a Pet craze going on.  So why not bandwagon?  Hey – I liked the grape before it was popular anyway.  Who are YOU to point your finger at ME? 

ANYWAY, I have tried a number of Pets in the past couple of years but with mixed results.  Some are too sticky.  Some have absolutely no character.  And most are just too damned expensive.  And you know there are few things I hate more than finding a really good bottle of wine and then not being able to afford to buy a bunch of it.  Why bother?   

All this brings us to the land known for sunny skies, watered down beer, Tequila, and…er… red… wine.  Of course… Mexico is synonymous with red wine.  Did I miss the grape vines growing alongside the agave plants? 

OK, so I thought my local wine steward was kidding when he mentioned this Pet from Mexico.  To tell you the truth I didn’t even know they made wine in Mexico.  But in the spirit of international brotherhood – oh, and the $8 sticker price – I figured I’d give it a shot. 

What I found was a wine that is downright – dare I say? – MACHO!  It does lack some of the complexities of other Pets and don’t expect anything approaching the ’99 EOS, but it has some pretty impressive fruit and it holds up well against several much higher priced wines.  Say hola to this one for $8 per bottle! 

PREVIOUS REVIEWS

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1998 Castillo De Fuendejalon – Crianza – Campo De Borja, Spain

Holy frijoles!  Yet another drinkable $6 bottle of wine.  There is something about the Tempranillo grape that I really like in a wine.  I’m a little bit Cabernet – I’m a little bit Zinfandel – sung to your favorite Donnie and Marie show intro.  OK, maybe not.   

This wine is 75% Grenache and the rest Tempranillo – a pretty popular blend in Spain.  It has been aged on American Oak for 6 months.  Again, I like American Oak.  Not just because it’s American – I like it for its spiciness.   

This one is another one of those “impress your wannabe wine snob friends” wine.  It looks awfully impressive with its full-bottle paper wrap/label and all.  And heck, it tastes good too.

 What does this wine go well with?  More wine of course!  At $5.99 a bottle (less by the case) I think you can open more than one.  OK, fine.  Try it with lightly spiced pork loin or beef but whatever you do – don’t eat it with a spicy Chinese dish.  Trust me.  Of course if someone knows of a red wine that DOES go with a spicy Chinese dish – please, let me know. 

2001 Castle Rock – Carneros Pinot Noir – California 

I like Pinots a lot but the problem is that usually they are IMO severely over-priced.  Take the Willamette Valley Pinots from Oregon for example.  We have some really good Pinots out here but I generally won’t afford the sticker they put on them.  Yes I said WON’T.  As I’ve said before, anyone can go out and spend a ton of dollars and come home with a fine wine (or at least you hope).  But I’ve spent less than $10 on many a wine that was simply fantastic.  And another thing – I almost invariably have buyers’ remorse the second I plop down $50 for a bottle of wine.  It better be awesome or I am pissed.  Sure, I’ll buy an expensive bottle here or there but come on - $40 or $50 for a bottle of wine just isn’t my bag.  If I pay $6 for a bottle of wine and it’s crap, I don’t even think about it.  If it’s even pretty good, I feel down right giddy.  If I pay $50 and it is only good, I am kicking myself.  Personally, I’d rather enjoy my wine.  OK, enough of my rant. 

The 2001 Castle Rock Pinot is not quite as heavy as many California Pinots.  It takes a bit to open up but the wait is worth it.  It has been aged for a year on French Oak – yeah I guess the frenchies can grow a good oak tree too.  I love the finish of this wine.  It wraps around your tongue and you want to just let it sit there in your mouth – well at least until your spit mixes with it and you pretty much have to swallow.  Make sure you drink this one in a Burgundy glass.  I tried it in a couple of different glasses and it was totally different in the others.  Hey, do I smell another article? 

Anyway, I really like this Pinot.  And if you don’t – write your own damn column!  Bottom line:  Approx. $11 per bottle – less by the case.

 

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1999 Bodega J & F Luton - Malbec "Reserva Oak Aged" - Mendoza, Argentina 

Wow!  Those of you who tried the Trapiche Malbec and liked it will wet themselves over this one.  OK – maybe not.  Full mouth, nice oak, rich fruit.  I think I taste a little tar.  Mmmmm – chocolate covered cherries with a tar chaser.  (Hey, Parker uses “new saddle leather” as a complimentary term – so how bad does tar sound? ) This Malbec reminds me of a heavy Zin with maybe a bit more oak than is typical.  Drink this one with a nice thick steak or other hearty food.  Buy this one by the case.  It is a great buy and the bottle looks pretty fancy.  You may be able to convince some snob at a dinner party you paid a lot of money for it.  (You know – you worry too much about what others think.  Just buy it for your own enjoyment.  Geeze!  Get a life!)  I paid $7.75 per bottle by the case.  You really can’t miss with this one.   

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2000  Rancho Zabaco  -  Zinfandel  - Sanoma Heritage Vines  - California 

I first tried a Rancho Zabaco Zin about 5 or 6 years ago.  I think I paid $6 for it.  One taste and I was hooked.  This was my style of Zin – thick, chewy, fruity, with a fresh American Oak finish.  As Zabaco started to get noticed, their price started to climb.  Hell they want $12 for this one!  That’s generally beyond my budget.  OK – maybe I’d just prefer to pay less.  Most Zabaco Zins are pretty respectable.  The 2000 Heritage starts out pretty ordinary but opens up very nicely.  Warning – do not get this bottle mistaken for the “Dancing Bull” of the same vintage.  You’ll pay the same but the wines don’t compare.  You’ve been warned so don’t blame me if you buy the wrong one and you notice it sucks.  Anyway, you will pay about $12 per single bottle or $9 per bottle by the case for both the right wine and the wrong wine.

October 2002 Reviews:

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 1999 Trapiche  -  Malbec  “Oak Cask” - Argentina

 This is a big wine with a nice bit of character.  If you haven’t tried a Malbec, try this one.  Nice big fruit, jammy – smoky flavors with a vanilla that coats the roof of your mouth.  Plenty of oak (American and French) and good character.  I like this one now but I am guessing it will be smoother and down right yummy in a few years.  Roughly $8 so what the hell do you have to lose?  Try a bottle. 

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2000 Barossa Valley Estate – Shiraz  - Australia 

All right now… this is the edited version of this review.  I felt the need to edit this review due to a fair amount of inconsistency between bottles of this wine.  Some of the bottles seem to have a very strong oaky taste to them.  These bottles still are not bad but they can sure put a pucker in your whistler.  If you get one of these bottles, recork it and let it sit in a cool place for a couple days.  This is still a very good Shiraz.  I think spicy dark chocolate with berries and vanilla.  Good spaghetti wine and also goes well with other spicy dishes.  Approximately $8/bottle

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2001 Novella  -  Synergy  (Blend of 45% Zinfandel, 45% Sangiovese, 10% Petite Syrah)

This is yet another label from the Arciero Winery in Paso Robles, CA.  Their Eos label has been gracing some incredible wines and now you may want to watch for the newer Novella label.  Anyway, back to the wine at hand.  I for one am not that into blends but this one may just throw all that out the window.  This blend really works.  The Sangiovese grape never really seemed to have caught on in this country so I suppose it’s a good thing the wine maker found something to do with it before it rotted on the vine like so many of the glut of California wine grapes.  In a nut shell, if you let this one pass you by don’t blame me – YOU’re the idiot.  I dare say this one is pretty freaking good.  And what the hell, at 14.7% alcohol you will at least get a good buzz with it.  And by that shecond boddle zis wiiiine is fuggin GREAT!  Have I mentioned that I love you man?  Approx. $9 per bottle.

 

 

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